Fermentation

A few notes from my current sojourn in Chicago…

Note #1: Illinois Wine Consumers Rock
Illinoisans tend, in general, to appreciate, be connected to and understand politics better than other city dwellers. This was most certainly brought home to me as I’ve met a number of wine-loving Illinoisans who are not only irked by their recently reduced access to wine in the state, but seem to understand the nuances of why they were stripped of their access to wine recently. And the word is that they have no interest in sitting around and taking it for much longer.

Note #2: Obama Owns This Town
When I studied Diplomatic History in College I recall looking at many old photos of Moscow during the reign of Stalin. No matter where you went, you’d see the ruler’s image on posters, sides of buildings…everywhere. Chicago is not much different today where President-Elect Obama is concerned, except for that small matter of Obama having actually been elected democratically. The Coming President’s image is everywhere: posters, tee-shirts, banners, billboards. I don’t recall ever seeing an American city so fully embracing a politician as their own

Note #3: Chicago’s Arresting Development
It seems no matter what corner you turn in Chicago you are faced with a unique cityscape that is arresting. It’s a matter of pride, competition and willingness where architecture is concerned. While architectural themes run through this city’s many great structures, there is no common theme making most views of the city as far from monotonous as could be. It makes for slow walking, an arrested gate, many stops along the way and great city viewing.

Note #4…But Wouldn’t Want To Live Here
I would a different person were I forced to live through a Chicago winter. Just the taste I got the past couple days of the cold, wind and snow reminds me of the “weather pussy” I’ve become having lived in Northern California all my life.

Note #5: A Great Wine City
Probably the best indication of just how great a wine city Chicago is can be understood by the amazing array of restaurants this city houses. It is fantasy land for the Foodie which means it is a relative fantasy land for the wine lover. Of course, Chicago’s selection of wines seems to be much more partial to diversity than in my neck of the woods, where preference is given to locally made wines. Chicago impresses with its willingness to accept inventory from both east and west of it.

Note #6: Winter Coats Galore
Anyone looking to enhance their collection of winter coats ought to come to Chicago just for this reason. Upon telling a lovely friend of mine I needed a new overcoat, she insisted I wait to buy one until I arrived here. She was sage. The selection of fine winter outerwear on display in this city is remarkable. I picked up two.

Note #7: The Suffering Must End
As many of you know, Illinois recently barred its residents from purchasing wine from out-of-state wine retailers. It was a bad decision that cost wine lovers hear access to many wines, cost the state significant amounts of tax revenue, and further damaged the reputation of the state and, if possible, many of its lawmakers. The suffering of wine lovers that came with the new anti-consumer, anti-free trade, protectionist law must end. And by all indications that I’ve gathered since arriving, there is a good chance it will.

I’ve realized over the years that I would not be a very good practicing Christian. Nor for that matter would I be a sterling example of a practicing Druid, Muslim, Pagan, Buddhist or any other ISM or IST. My problem comes in making the effort to embrace that which I cannot see. Faith, to specific.

This isn’t to say I don’t touch the “Mystic” now and again. Rather, my own moments of embracing the Mystic happened to be almost always connected to people. I can’t see love or intimacy or desire; but I know it exists. (I know what you are thinking—but let’s move on anyway.)

This is not a lead up to announcing a conversion experience or public expression of a new love or a particularly transforming moment of intimacy. It’s a lead up to talking about The Philip Stein “Wine Wand”.

To quote from the little bejeweled tool’s promotional material, “The Philip Stein® Wine Wand is a breakthrough device that uses natural energy to aerate wine, enhancing flavors and aroma almost instantly.”

“The elegant wand with encapsulated glass jewels uses natural frequencies to perfectly aerate wine. By inserting the wand into a wine bottle/decanter for 5 minutes, or in a glass for 2 or 3 minutes, the Philip Stein® Wine Wand releases the wine’s natural aromas and flavors to achieve their full potential while not changing the taste you love. “

The makers also refer to this little implement at “mysterious”…and indeed it is.

Accepting this kind of thing strikes me as having to embrace my inner Merlin; as magic; Hocus Pocus.

I’m not opposed to Hocus Pocus. And I’ve always thought possessing magical powers might be pretty convenient assuming it came with no obligation to purchase cauldrons, expensive implements or inappropriate costumes. Nevertheless, I’m not one to pursue my inner hocus pocus. So this is why I was very skeptical of the “Wine Wand” when it was sent to me to try. Being opened minded and appreciative of the Wine Wand’s efforts to reach out to me, I gave this new Wand a try. Luckily there are instructions.

“Pour a small amount of wine from a freshly opened bottle into two identical glasses, placing them several feet apart on a non-conductive surface (not glass or metal). Place the wand into one glass, wait 2 to 3 minutes and taste the difference! The difference is most significant with a freshly opened bottle since the aeration process starts the moment you open it.”

What bothered me most about this Philip Stein Wine Wand was that it seemed to work. The difference between the two glasses of young Australian Syrah I tested it with were pretty easy to detect. The non-hocus pocus glass glass, tasted upon pouring, was more closed and tight than the Magic Glass where the Wine Wand sat for a few minutes. The Magic Syrah was fleshier, more aromatic and even somewhat tastier.

But I’m still at a loss. what was it about the long glass tube, the glass jewels in the elegant little tube and its moment of stillness in the glass that created the Magic Syrah? I don’t’ know. I don’t know what mystical (or natural) force to attribute this to. I don’t know what “natural energy” is or how it accomplished this transformation.

This idea that “It works, but I don’t know how and don’t know why” is the sort of claim I’ve heard or read about in relation to many other things in my life. And it has always been policy to accept the claim, give the practice under consideration a try, then generally move on when my world is not rocked or even nudged the way it was claimed it was going to be. Hence my youthful and singular invovlement with Magic Mushrooms that were supposed to allow me to “float above your body and see reality the way it is, dude” according to a dorm-mate at Humboldt State University in 1985.

The Philip Stein Wine Wand is not for the faint of heart. It comes with a beautiful little leather pouch made of alligator, python or crocodile for a price of $325. Or you can obtain the authentic Black Carbon Fiber version that retails for $425.

There is Shamelessness and then there i Shamefulness. While the Michigan wine wholesalers and Michigan Representatives Barbara Farrah and Chris Ward certainly possess the former, its the latter that they put on display today when they all worked together to introduce a Bill and pass it out of committee with the intent that no one would see them do it.

HB 6644 would strip Michigan retailers of their long held right to ship wine to Michigan residents via a common carrier as well as deliver it to customers using their own delivery vehicles. The bill, if it becomes law, will be a tragic disregard for, and slap across the face of, Michigan retailers—all for the purpose of protecting Michigan wholesalers from competition.

The very secretive bill that got rammed through the Michigan House Regulatory Reform Committee today was inspired by a Michigan Federal District Court decision from September 30th that ruled Michigan’s prohibition on consumers purchasing wine from out-of-state retailers was unconstitutional. Basing her decision on the 2005 Granholm v. Heald Supreme Court Decision, Judge Donna Hood ruled that the state violated the U.S. Constitution by allowing its in-state retailers to ship to Michigan residents but prohibiting out of state retailers from doing the same.

While the wholesalers and the Attorney General both appealed the decision, it appears today that they realized their chance of winning that appeal was virtually nil. So, they decided the best thing to do was screw Michigan retailers as hard as they could by finding well paid state representatives to introduce the bill yesterday under the cover of darkness, then announce one hour before the hearing today that it would be discussed. No time at all for any consumers or retailers to mount any opposition.

What’s shameful is that the Representatives Farrah and Ward, along with Michigan Liquor Control Commission Chairperson Nida Somona, were willing to hold the arms and legs of Michigan retailers and consumers and pin them down on the ground while the Michigan wine wholesalers went about rogering them good.

This kind of secretive politics engaged in by powerful businesses and encouraged by state officials is exactly why citizens are so cynical about politics.

HB 6644 still needs to come to a vote on the floor of the Michigan House. After that a companion bill in the Senate will need to be passed and then the Governor will need to sign the bill for it to become law.

If any readers know any Michigan residents that, upon hearing about this unethical turn of events, would be inclined to write the State Representative and ask them to vote against the bill when it comes to the house floor, they should point them to the Michigan House Representative Finder where they can determine who their State Representative is and what their phone and email address is.

In the mean time, I can’t see any reason why anyone from any state might not want to express there outrage not necessarily at the content of this bill but at the fact that public officials like Nida Sonoma, Representative Barbara Farrah and Representative Chris Ward would be willing to support such an unethical attempt to take citizens and stakeholders out of the legislative process by helping push forward a secretive hearing that was meant to do one thing: make sure no one knew it was happening.

If you are interested in Expressing Yourself:

Representative Barbara Farrah (main sponsor): barbarafarrah@house.mi.gov
Representative Chris Ward (co-sponsor): chrisward@house.mi.gov
Commissioner Nida Somona: :mlccinfo2@michigan.gov

I’ve been at serious risk for quite some time of being accused with good reason of being an Alice Feiring stalker But I’ll risk the additional chance of solidifying that perception in the minds of many by pointing you all toward something that I’d never seen before today. It’s a beautiful and revealing piece Ms. Feiring wrote in 2007 for the New York Times to which she so very subtly links in a recent blog post of hers at Veritas in Vino that addresses ethics and blogging.

“How My Plumber Turned Water into Wine” made me smile…broadly. You will too.

The essay is also a perfect example of what’s missing from the wine writing genre: A focus on REAL life, versus Lifestyle.

When was the last time you heard of someone thinking deeply over what brand of spirits to open for company or a significant other? Does anyone really ever take time to think about what would be the perfect beer for a quiet dinner for two? Is “self indulgence” ever more perfectly defined than when we choose a wine from our cellar that’s meant to drunk just by the chooser?

The answers are rarely if ever, no and no.

I’ve been thinking recently about Wine & Single Guy. More accurately, I’ve been thinking about the differences between how wine contributes to and reflects a relationship and how it contributes to singledom. What I’ve concluded shouldn’t be a surprise or a revelation:

1. Wine is the drink best suited to reflect a commitment to a relationship between two people

2. Wine is extraordinarily well suited to reflect the self indulgent nature of singledom.
For those of you who are coupled, yet remember vividly that time when you were not, consider the process of you went through to choose a wine to drink just for yourself versus how you choose a wine to drink today. The difference between the responses to “What will I drink tonight?” and “What should I open for us tonight” is the same difference between the meaning of these questions: “How do I feel tonight?” and “What are we feeling tonight”?

The first question is so immediately and complete self indulgent that it almost seems pathological. The second question indicates a connection of value. This might overstate the question, but not by much.

For example, given a person of average to slightly above average means, what does it say about them when they open a bottle of 1990 Grande Dame for themselves? What does it say when they choose to uncork a 1985 Richbourg alone at a table? Tell me you wouldn’t raise your eyebrows. Tell me that despite the great wine they are about to consume you wouldn’t feel a little sorry for them…maybe even worried. Not that you necessarily should be, but it’s a thought that would cross your mind, I’m sure.

On the other hand, the table set for two on which sits a fine vintage Champagne and a great Burgundy can’t on the face of it be considered anything other than smile-inducing and lovely.

One is curiously self-indulgent. The other is probably a celebration of a relationship.

I think it’s important to keep in mind the way wine and our choices surrounding wine can be a signpost pointing toward our place in the world and the permanent or current personal connections we possess. Remember, no one will or really can with any accuracy assess your current disposition based on the brand of vodka you pour over ice, whether it’s poured just for yourself or for you and another person. But they will, and can, when wine is the liquid at hand.

Of course, more than anything this all points to one set of immutable facts: singlehood is the condition through which we can most fully express the simple truth of “me”; couplehood is the condition through which we can most fully express our personal well of emphathy. Wine is uniquely suited to shine the light on both. And this is one more reason why wine is the most special of all beverages.

For anyone who concerns themselves with the future of wine in America or the future of the American wine industry; for anyone who involves themselves in the sales and marketing of American wines; for anyone who produces wine in America with an eye toward illuminating not only their hand but their land, then a new bit of required reading has been produced by Appellation America.

Roger Dial, the Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of Appellation America has produced a two-part essay on the what the American Wine industry and the American wine consumer needs. In a word: Diversity.

But Part 1 (“Building Diversity”) and Part 2 (“Branding Diversity”) of Dial’s essay is something more than the kind of call arms for which Appellation America has been known. Instead, what has been produced in this relatively short read (given the subject matter) is a critical, honest and respectful analysis of the path that the American Wine Industry has taken to reach its current state of evolution.

In part, the first 80% of the essay is a lead up to a description and justification of Appellation America’s “Best of Appellation Evaluation” program. But in much larger part, Dial has dissected the largely reductionist tendencies among marketers, and the willingness of winemakers to embrace these tendencies, that have played an important role in diminishing the possibility of a much more robust and vital American wine culture.

It’s a stunning indictment of the past 40 years of the Wine Industry while being also a remarkable guiding light for the winemakers and marketers that Dial so clearly appreciates and has confidence in.

This is a must read. It’s a must discuss.

In the San Francisco Chronicle today I was reading about the trio of gentleman who have started “Terroir”, a wine bar and wine shop in a warehouse on Folsom Street in San Francisco. “Terroir” is focused on “Natural wines” that are described by writer Wolfgang Weber as “a sort of catchall term for organic, biodynamic and minimal intervention” wines.

You have to love a trio of guys like this, with so much passion for wine that they’d invest in opening a bar and shop that reflected that passion for “natural wines”.

However…(sorry boys), I think it a little unfortunate that in the course of positioning their new venture they denigrate American wines so forthrightly:

“Q. You don’t carry much domestic wine. Why?

Ertoran: On top of expressing terror, our palate is not geared toward domestic wines.”

Take time for what? Is it really necessary to “spend centuries working a piece of ground” to make a “natural wine” or to produce a collection of wines from, say, California, that are clearly every bit as good as the “natural” wines that come out of France? Please! There are hundreds of wines in California alone that are produced with organic grapes, that are certified organic, that are made in a biodynamic fashion and that are produced with minimal intervention. But more importantly, these wines are every bit as good as the French and European wines in every respect.

I tire of this old refrain that “America must put a few centuries under its belt before it can claim parity of seriousness that the French and European producers naturally have.” It’s an absurd claim that derives from nothing more than fear and a well developed sense of marketing and brand positioning.

Don’t get me wrong. It’s not as though the partners at the new “Terroir” are the first to make this kind of dismissive claim about American wines. There is a long tradition of it.

The fact is, it’s a cultural thing to be willing to open your eyes and make the wines of the New World a part of your life; to spend time gearing one’s palate toward an appreciation of all wines. There hasn’t been an evolution among Old Worlders toward this reality.

I sure am looking forward to visiting Terroir. It seem like a very cool place to hang out, browse, sip and talk. But I think I might bring a bottle of Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Zinfnadel with me under my coat and slip it across the counter for Gerard to try. Maybe I’ll bring him some Quivera wines. It would be nice to introduce him to the various vintages that Randall Grahm has produced too.

The American Wine Blog Awards will be moving into their 3rd year very soon and I’m excited about them. There are so many outstanding bloggers and wine blogs out there. The hope for these Awards is that they continue to highlight the best of the blogosphere.

However, there is one thing I’ve wanted to do from the beginning but have never been able to get it together in a meaningful way: GIVE PRIZES TO THE WINNERS!

I’m not talking about a trophy. What I’m thinking is that it would be great (and appropriate) to offer meaningful prizes to the winners in each category that relate to the category they have won. The categories for the Wine Blog Awards are:

BEST OVERALL WINE BLOG
BEST WRITING
BEST GRAPHICS
BEST WINE REVIEW BLOG
BEST BUSINESS WINE BLOG
BEST SINGLE SUBJECT WINE BLOG
BEST WINERY BLOG
BEST WINE VIDEOBLOG OR PODCAST

So here is my question to the FERMENTATION and wine community:

-What Do You Think Would Be Appropriate Prizes For Each Category?

Leave a comment or contact me via email (Here’s My Email Address) and give me your ideas. This is one facet of the Awards I want to focus on this year